Harkness Kitchen Renovation (complete July 2012)

We started working on this kitchen renovation for Julie and Bobby Harkness in February of this year. I helped her develop a design that would lend to a much more open floor plan. We took out the wall dividing the dining room from the kitchen and brought the kitchen out toward the dining room more. We also added a door to backyard to make it more accessible. We built a full-sized pantry and added an office space for Bobby.

In our collaborative design, we fixed issues like:

• The previous layout had Julie traipsing all over the kitchen, from one side to the other, in order to access the refrigerator, sink and pantry while cooking. We brought those things into a central location.
• The refrigerator used to be right in the path from the dining room to the kitchen, making it difficult for someone to pass by if someone else was in the fridge – we remedied that.
• Previously, the only way into the backyard was through the sunroom. The back door we added provides immediate access, especially for the dogs.

We put in cabinetry with slide out shelves – something that is very popular because it allows homeowners to access the items in the back without a lot of work. Additionally, we updated the brick fireplace by wrapping in it stone and building a new mantle. We also added a bar top and stools along the pony wall dividing the dining room and living room, which creates a place for someone to eat, watch television or work on a laptop without committing themselves to the lazy couch.

One design element that I must also point out is that the cabinets opposite the window and next to the oven are built INTO the wall, rather than hung on it. We framed the oven base and part of the upper-cabinets into the wall, with the extreme uppers surface mounted. This provides a little more walking space and accommodates bar stools at the island. It also added a design element that I think looks great.

We had a lot of fun working with the Harkness family. They were very encouraging throughout the project and I enjoyed every trip I made to their house. I think we will be working with them in the future, too.

~ Andy

Safety Tips for the DIY Project

You may come across this post and think “Well, duh. I know how to be safe when I’m working around my home.” But take it from the pros here at HA Construction, there are some things even we had to learn the hard way. So we thought we’d take a few moments to save you the trouble.

Ladders

It’s not as simple as climbing up the steps, having someone spot you, and never stepping on the top rung (though many of you probably ignore those last two). And using a small ladder to change a lightbulb or even install a new ceiling fan is fairly rudimentary. However, when it comes to using extension ladder, that can put you up 20 feet or more, you’d be much safer from traumatic falls by taking the following precautions:

• Fortify the Base – Securing the ladder at the base is of vital importance. Many ladders fall because homeowners lean it against the building at too much of an angle and it slides out, often while someone is on it.
• Tie it Down – Securing the base is not enough, though. The ladder still needs to be tied down so that the wind doesn’t blow it over, leaving you stranded on the roof (it’s also important to take your cell phone up with you, as Andy knows all too well).
• Spend a Little More – Fiberglass ladders are stronger and safer than aluminum ladders. Though they are more expensive, they don’t conduct electricity, and when you’re up that high, a ladder can encounter electrical lines. It’s worth spending extra money to prevent electrocution.
• Best Location – Choose a spot to use the ladder and access high places away from property that can be damaged if the ladder falls, such as vehicles.

Chemicals

Don’t take the use of chemicals, even paint, lightly. Long term health effects can occur when you fail to follow manufacturer instructions for proper protection. In addition to adequately following direction for use, keep these points in mind:

• Wear the Right Mask– A paper or cloth dust mask over your nose and mouth is not the same as a respirator, which some chemicals require while using.
• Proper Ventilation – Be sure to have proper ventilation when using chemicals of any sort, especially those with spray application. It’s best to use them outdoors, but if you must use them inside, be sure to open windows and use fans to pull the fumes out of the space.
• The Worst Chemicals – Oil-based urethanes, lacquers and primers are all examples of chemicals that are very hard on your system, specifically brain cells.

Power Tools

Power tool safety usually means keeping appendages out of the way of blades, and avoiding live electrical lines with power screwdrivers. But while cuts and electrocution are legitimate concerns, they don’t occur as frequently as hearing damage. When you frequently run power tools, specifically gas-powered ones (such as chainsaws or concrete saws), the strong noise pitch can cause you to lose your hearing over time. Be sure to use hearing protection ear muffs in addition to taking safety precautions against cuts and other common problems.

Also, some contractors modify the safety features on power tools to make them work faster and more efficiently. If you dare to take that step, remember that these products were manufacturer tested. Guards, safety switches, and slower speeds were put on them to maximize safety, even at the cost of a little more time.

Think Before You Use

The best way to remain safe when taking on a DIY project is by thinking before you use something, applying common sense, and following all of the manufacturer instructions, regardless of how unnecessary they may seem. After all, it takes an accident occurring just once for consequences that last a lifetime.

Paint a Room Like a Pro: Part 2 – Painting

Don’t panic. We know you’ve waited all week for the second portion of this series so that you can finish the nursery just in time for little Jack to arrive. Make sure that you review the preparation post – that your drop cloths are down, your caulking is done and you’ve masked the edges of all vital surfaces.

Now, let’s get to it, shall we?

Selecting the Right Primer

Now that your walls are clean, it’s time to apply primer. You may think that the only time you need to use a primer is if you’re going from a very dark color to a lighter color. However, professionals use a primer regardless of the color change because it covers stains and allows for the new color to maintain the desired look (rather than being tented by the previous color).

You’ll find many types of primers to choose from. For walls that are relatively clean and problem free (you just want a new color!), use an all-purpose, universal acrylic primer. However, if there are minor stains (such as smoke residue), spot prime those areas with a quick-dry oil based primer (latex base primers, like the Kilz brand, have less odor). Severe stains like crayons, ink, fire damage or water damage, will probably need a shellac-base primer to keep them from bleeding through.

According to Andy, if you tint the primer in the color you want to paint the room, it will cut down on the coats you need of the paint to get adequate coverage.

Cutting In to Edges and Corners

The process for cutting in applies to both primer and painting. Use a wide-mouthed can or painting bucket and add just a couple inches of paint at a time. Then, with your cut-in brush (a wide but thin and flatter brush designated for this process), dip it about a half inch into the paint, tack the sides on the inside of the can and then wipe the excess paint on the lip of the can. It may appear that there isn’t much paint left on your brush to work with, but the interior bristles hold plenty to do the job.

Start a couple of inches away from your cut-in point and bring the paint downward. Starting directly at the tape line or edge will leave behind too much paint (this can cause problems later when you go to remove your masking tape and the paint starts to peel off with it). The same applies to the ceiling – start below the ceiling line to work off the excess paint and work your way up, slowly cutting in along the edge so it’s smooth. You should end up with two to three inches of edging along these points so you have plenty of room to roll without mishap.

It’s important to note that transitioning to a color that contrasts with your current walls, such as going from red to cream, makes it hard to have a straight cut-in line. Again, using a tinted primer and making sure to get an adequate number of coats of paint will help. And remember, you can’t just cut-in once and call it good. You need to cut-in every time you do another coat on the wall for adequate coverage.

Painting Process

Do not saturate your roller – you only want a small amount of paint so that you can avoid drips running down your walls and creating textures you weren’t intending. Roll the brush in the pan until it is covered, and then remove a bit of access by rolling it at the top of the pan.

Start in the middle of the wall, rather than the top or the bottom, and roll in a general “W” pattern to get the access paint off and evenly spread over the surface of the wall. Starting at the top or bottom of the wall makes smoothing the excess paint more difficult. By starting in the middle, you’re working toward your cut-in surface for optimal results.

It’s important that you wait the manufacturer’s designated amount of time before adding additional coats to the paint. And each coat will need to be completely dry before you determine if it needs another coat or not. Before you put on that next coat, check on the walls’ appearance several times throughout the day, because changing daylight will also change the way the walls look. Oddly enough, yellow paint is typically the hardest to cover and, even after a primer, may still need three coats of paint to obtain the new color you desire.

Also, you’ll want to remove your masking before the paint has completely dried, but after it has set, which is usually about a day after your final coat. Waiting too long means that you will have pieces of masking left behind. If you remove it too soon, the paint will peel off, too.

Now the nursery is ready for little Jack’s world début. Next on the list: painting the living room!

Paint a Room Like a Pro: Part 1 - Preparations

First, you have to move the furniture. Isn’t that the worst part? You want so badly to update your most used room in your home, but, being that it is the most popular, it’s probably stacked from corner to corner with stuff!

So, after you move all of the stuff out of the way, cover your floors and furniture to protect from paint splatter, and slap on your painting garb, the next step is to paint it right. After all, you want it to look like a pro did it.

Take a little break from taping off the ceiling line and read this article for some great tips, from an actual pro, that will give you “ooo-ahhh” worth paint results.

Prep Time

So you’ve moved the furniture away from the walls and stored the kids’ toys in their rooms (who knew they had so many!) – next, you need to put down drop clothes. Quality canvas drop clothes, while more expensive, are a better option because paint drops are soaked up, which means you’re less likely to track paint into other rooms. Additionally, plastic drop clothes on hard surface floors can be a slipping hazard.

Gather all your tools together and keep them close by for easy access and a quicker painting process. You might want to also add lights to the room to help you see missed spots. Ideally, you want to work with the natural light and place lamps and clamping lights in order to eliminate shadows (which means they’ll have to be moved as the day progresses).

Also, be sure to take down window treatments and other easily removable accessories like outlet covers. Removal is easier than trying to keep paint off of them.

One prep item that most home owners ignore, but HA Construction doesn’t, is cleaning the walls. For the best results against dirt and grime, use TSP (you can find a box of Trisodium Phosphate at your local hardware store) and hot water, following the mixture instructions on the box. If there is mildew on the walls, add a splash of bleach to the mixture.

Caulking and Masking

Another thing homeowners overlook, but really helps provide that professional result, is caulking baseboard and trim joints. Stick with a basic acrylic caulking because it paints well (pure silicone caulking actually repeals paint). If you’re painting a bathroom or kitchen, look for caulking designated for high moisture areas.

Using tape designated for painting, mask all horizontal surfaces, primarily tops of baseboards and floors. Tear off the tape in about foot long pieces as you go, and, pulling the tape tight, lay it on the surface of the baseboard right up against the wall so no paint seeps (the same goes for the floor). Be sure to overlap pieces a bit to prevent missed spots. For baseboards, don’t push the tape all the way down. Instead, leave a “roof” or hood to help prevent splatter more effectively, and to take the tape off easier when you’re finished.

Some people choose to mask window and door trim or even the ceiling. This is, of course, your personal preference. However, because removing the tape from vertical surfaces without pulling paint along with can be tricky, and having tape there may result in the overuse of paint, many experts recommend using a quality trim brush and a patient hand instead of relying on tape to adequately cut-in at these edges.

So it Begins

You’ve laid the ground work, now it’s time to paint – which is probably the most intimidating part of the process.

Check out Part Two of this series for tips on priming, cutting in to corners and tough spots, and even properly cleaning your painting supplies.