Meet Jeremy | The New Guy

Jeremy started working for HA Construction in March of this year. While he may be the newbie of the crew, we see him sticking around for awhile.

Jeremy moved from Florida to the Springfield area in August of 2014 to be closer to his parents. His dad was injured in an accident, so Jeremy brought his daughter to the area to be closer to her grandparents. He discovered the job opening with HA Construction and the rest, we hope, is history in the making.

“I do whatever they ask,” he says of his work for the company.  “We’ve done a wide variety since I’ve been here: hung ceilings, worked on some floors, poured concrete, hauled bricks…” But Jeremy likes the diversity of work and the opportunity to show his skills in several areas. His background is in framing, and he’s working in construction off and on for the last decade.

“I’ve worked for a few different people. Andy here has a good heart. I think he cares and he wants to do a good job. He’s definitely involved and it’s been a joy to work for him so far. Some places it’s a number syndrome where you’re just a person coming in to work – I’ve worked in other places where you go to talk to someone and they don’t even know your name. But when Andy stops by he’ll talk to you for awhile – he’s down to earth which is nice.”

Working on the master bedroom/bathroom addition has been Jeremy’s favorite project so far. “Other then the fact that for two days I had to haul all of this brick out of here by wheelbarrow to a trailer, which pushed the limits of what I like to do,” he jokes.  “But we got through it and it’s been great framing this. I know a little about that stuff so it’s been easy, and Nick and I get along pretty well so it’s just been smooth.”

What’s Jeremy’s favorite part of working for HA Construction so far? “Seeing it come together – from the ground up, the progress – and when it’s finished, that’s the coolest part.”  

Meet Nick | HA Construction’s Framing Guy

Nick Lewis has been working for HA Construction for a little over four years now. He is our go-to framing guy, though he has a wide range of skills. Nick did custom house framing in California for 10 years before moving back to Missouri about five year ago – he had family here and was looking for a slower paced life than the California scene.

“Since working for Andy, I’ve learned a lot of different skills,” Nick says. The newest being laying hardwood floors;  he really enjoys laying tile flooring too. Every now and then, Nick fills in where he’s needed, but his framing work is unmatched in our books.

Nick says that it’s the variety of what HA Construction has to offer that makes the company stand out among competitors. “If you have a job that has a lot of different items that need to be done, we can cover it all. You don’t have to go to different contractors to get it all done. We can take care of it all and the projects don’t get dragged out – we’re efficient too. We pride ourselves on having good communication with the customers and making sure they’re informed on what we’re doing and our schedule.”

“Andy and Lisa are good people and it rubs off when you work for them,” Nick says. “Work is never an issue – Andy keeps us busy and there is definitely job security. It’s never mundane – we’re constantly doing something different. The job is always a surprise, to a point.”

One might say that last fall, Nick got the ultimate job site surprise. HA Construction acquired a job replacing over 600 windows in an apartment complex. Nick was in charge of the window project, and that’s how he met Heather, the office manager for the complex. Because of the nature of the job, the two of them worked together every day and soon started spending time together outside of the job site. On Valentine’s Day, Nick proposed and the two will be married in May of 2016. Talk about a job perk!

In his spare time, Nick is a radio-controlled gas powered racecar enthusiast. He’s pictured here with his nephew and all his racing gear. In 2013, he received forth place at the nationals in Texas, and he’s received various other trophies and awards with his racing skills. HA Construction is proud to be a sponsor for Nick’s car – we like seeing our decals on it, especially when he wins!

Leveling That Stubborn Shower Tile

Big tiles in the shower are all the rage these days – 12x24, 20x20, 24x24, and so on. It’s also fairly common for a client to request that the tile design be on an angle, making a diamond out of the tiles and increasing that working space to about 30 inches.

And it’s really difficult to keep a 30 inch line level.

Especially because walls are never level. Sure, they look like they are to the naked eye, and a lot of times they can be straight, but they’ll have just a little bow in them, which can cause shower tiles to pop up from the surface after setting if not leveled properly. Or the junctions between the floor and wall or ceiling and wall aren’t quite level, causing tile on one end of the shower to meet the crease, while tile on the other end is half and inch below it.

To avoid these unsightly flaws in a shower tile design, HA Construction uses a special leveling technique. It’s a painstaking process, no doubt, but saves time and money. We’d rather take our time and do it right than suffer through the expense of starting all over when it turns out wrong (which you often don’t notice until you’re nearly done!).

Here’s how the process works: a ‘T’ slides underneath the tile and then a clip is placed on top of the tile. A wedge is used, pushing the tile into the clip and pulling up on the T to level with the adjacent tile. We have to put enough clips on to level all areas of the tile – it typically is about nine clips. As you use the wedge, the tile will move with each clip, so if we put the clips on just a few points, then the tile won’t be level.

We also have to make sure we do this process while the thin set is still wet. If we wait too long, the thin set becomes like clay and the tiles pull away from the wall during the leveling process.

The process can be time consuming, and it certainly looks complicated, but this is the best way to make sure you have clean, straight lines and a cohesive look. We occasionally use this process on floors too, though that’s not as common.

Finding a Green Construction Company

We all know how to switch our light bulbs to the more energy efficient kind. And we know to turn the faucet off while we brush our teeth, or to buy a low-flow toilet to conserve water. Energy efficient washing machine? Check. Dishwasher? Check. Recycle everything with a label? Check.

So, let’s say you’re wanting to do a renovation or build an addition on your home. As earth-conscious as you are, you want a construction company with the same green-friendly approach to its everyday work habits.

The Mindset of a Green Contractor

It’s one thing to be told a construction company is green, but how do you really know that is the case? AEC Business (offering resources for architects, engineers and contractors) recommends that green building practices needs to take the following into account:

• An intelligent approach to energy
• Safeguarding water resources
• Minimizing waste
• Maximizing reuse
• Promoting health and well-being
• Creating resilient and flexible structures
• Considering the building’s effects on the surrounding community
• Considering all stages of the building’s life cycle

You’ll know upon initial interview if a construction company stands behind these same motivations.

Certification

In addition to all of the ways a construction company shows itself to be green through its business practices, you can be certain that it’s a green construction company if it has a U.S. Green Building Council membership and/or goes through the USGBC’s LEED certification process for each and every renovation project and new build. USGBC members receive exclusive access to education, programs and resources that help them develop effective green business practices and promote that to the community.

True to Life Application

Obviously a green mindset needs to align with action. How does all of this look in real life during the construction process? When you interview contractors and speak to their references, consider that a green construction company should do the following:

• Focus on the use of quality air barriers, caulking, foam, insulation, sealants, etc to reduce air leakage from any renovated or newly built area.
• Highly suggesting the use of recycled building materials, such as glass, concrete, steel and wood.
• Open to the use of reclaimed building materials (however, this is dependent upon the look you want), which can save money as well as help the environment.
• Retaining outdated materials (rather than taking them to the dump when they’re replaced) to donate to organizations like Habitat for Humanity.
• Emphasizing the installation of energy efficient devices in your renovation design or build.
• Conserving energy during the building process, such as unplugging devices when not in use.
• Using electric- or battery-powered tools over gas-powered tools.

If emphasizing the conservation of the planet is important to you in all aspects of life, it won’t take long to determine whether a construction company truly stands behind the green-friendly practices it proclaims. A little digging and observation can go a long way toward finding a contractor that is a good fit for your earth-conscious ideals during a renovation process or new build. 

Communicating With Your Contractor Effectively

Okay, so you’ve hired someone to do a home repair or remodel. You have in your mind exactly what you want the end result to look like, so it’s time to sit down with your contractor and give him all the details.

But, when it comes time to make a plan of action, you find your contractor has ideas that are a little different than yours, or tells you certain things can’t be done. And suddenly you’re wondering if maybe you hired the wrong person for the job.

Don’t fret. Don’t let the fact that your contractor knows more about construction work intimidate you. You also don’t want to get overbearing and insist upon things your way, despite your lack of industry know-how.

Instead, find a common ground. Utilize these tips to make sure you get what you want, while still allowing the contractor to give you the best possible results.

1. Pick the Right Person for the Job

Once your determine you want a project done, choose the right contractor. Don’t just hoard estimates and pick the cheapest one. Take the time to interview the top candidates in person; tell each what you’re wanting to do and your budget and see how it goes. View some of their completed projects and talk to previous clients to see what the process was like.

You want someone whose personality meshes with yours so that you can communicate effectively throughout the process. You have to be able to get along – and even laugh – because even the best projects have a hiccup or two. You also want someone that clearly listens to your ideas.

2. Be on the Same Page With Your Spouse

Your contractor doesn’t want to play marriage counselor or mediator – at least not without charging your for it. If there is more than one person making the decisions about the remodeling project, then you need to come to a consensus about what you want and your budget long before hiring a contractor. There will be moments in the process where questions come up or decisions have to be made, in which case you and your spouse (roommate, sibling, what-have-you) should take some time to discuss it in private and give the contractor an answer once you agree.

3. Make a Plan

You need to sit down with your contractor and discuss exactly what you want and allow him to tell you what can be done (and how) and what can’t. This is the time that you will address how you can’t knock out that wall to open up the kitchen because it’s load bearing – but you can put in a support beam or a pass through to open up the space and still provide structural integrity for your home.

Remember, you may not have all of the information when you envision your renovated space. Be willing to hear your contractor out and work together to make a plan that you can both live with and stick to throughout the entire process. Be sure to communicate your “must have” items and the ones you’re willing to compromise on to get the job done efficiently.

4. Be a Good Sport

Effective communication with your contractor means that you treat him the way you would want to be treated in his shoes. Be patient. Be gracious and kind (but not a doormat). Understand that delays happen. Obviously, if no one is showing up for work when they are supposed to and things aren’t being done the way you agreed without more communication, then your contractor isn’t doing his part. But if he and his team are always there on time and working hard to get you what you want, then there is no reason why you shouldn’t cut them some slack.

And bringing them lemonade and snacks every once in awhile doesn’t hurt much either.

Combining the Laundry Room and Master Closet

Pinterest really draws you in.

And when you’re looking to make some changes around your home, it’s chalked full of ideas. One seen as of late is putting the washer and dryer in the master bedroom closet.

This is, of course, a brilliant idea in theory. And it’s increasing in popularity with new home construction. After all, how convenient it would be to do your laundry in your closet and never have to lug another basket of folded clothes up the stairs ever again.

While the benefit of convenience could easily make the decision for you, before you renovate your master closet for convenience sake, there are some things to consider.

Upstairs Means Risk

Remember the days of the waterbed? Remember the risk involved with putting one on the upper floors? If the bed were to ever leak, you’d have a bigger problem then you could imagine on your hands. The same goes for having a washer and dryer on anything but the ground floor. Why do you think laundry rooms are always ground level?

Yes, you have a bathtub, toilet and sink upstairs in all likelihood. But they aren’t as prone to leaking as a washer can be. Not to mention the fact that, in order to move the laundry to the master closet in an existing home, you’re going to have to run new water lines and drains (not a cost-friendly task).

Additionally, accommodating a second story location for the lint duct means you either need to have it blow outside from a high location or have to lengthen the duct to reach the second story. It both cases, it will be much harder to clean if it kinks or gets clogged.

Convenience May be Fleeting

There are limited circumstances in which the convenience of combining your laundry room and master closet outweighs the risk:

• You live in a one story home
• All of the bedrooms are on the same side of the house to reduce how much laundry you carry
• You’re exceptionally organized so your closest isn’t overrun by a floor full of dirty clothes
• Your master bedroom closet is already the size of a walk-in closet and laundry room combined (to accommodate the extra clothing and laundry bins)
• You’re only doing laundry for yourself and not a house full of kids (otherwise, their clothes will now take over your closet)

HA Construction will help you plan the appropriate design for your new home or see if a laundry room/closet combo is a viable option in your current dwelling. Basically, the best way to do a washer and dryer in the master bedroom closet is to do it with a new home build and plan accordingly – such as a single story or bedrooms all on the same floor, and an excessively large closet to accommodate all of the extra clothes. The cost and risk of adding a washer and dryer to the master closet in your current home simply may not be worth it for added convenience.

Getting Your Kids Involved with DIY Projects

We all have them… small projects on the to-do list for around the home that never seem to get done, what for all the distractions that life keeps us busy with… namely our children.

But, hold on just one second! What if we actually got the kids involved  with some of those projects? After all, it would keep their little hands busy for awhile, you’d be able to check something off your to-do list for a change, and (best of all) you’d be creating memories.

Here are a few ideas from HA Construction for including your kids in home projects, and bonding with them in new ways.

Simple Tasks

Start with the easy things to help your child build confidence. Give him or her little projects around the house such as:

• Tightening screws in the door knob
• Replacing lightbulbs (a great learning opportunity on electricity and ladder safety)
• Changing batteries in the smoke detectors
• Replacing the furnace filter

Paint a Room

Number one on the “get your kids involved” list is painting a room together. Yes, it’s messy. And, yes, they won’t have the skills of a professional painter. But you will have a blast doing it together and (bonus!) the dining room will finally get done!

Start by removing all the excess furnishings and completely covering the floor in drop clothes – you certainly don’t want to take any chances with small hands likely to splatter paint in any direction. To prevent tracking paint into other rooms, buy disposable plastic shoe covers (they look a lot like shower caps that go over your shoes). Instruct your kids to put them on when they’re in the room painting, and take them off right at the door if they have to leave the room for any reason.

Now that you have the messy aspects of the project taken care of, show your kids how it’s done. For older children, let them help you tape things off. And most all kids can handle a roller and the lower portion of the wall while you do the trim. But before you commence painting the “right” way, take some smaller brushes and draw/write on the walls with the paint. Write your names, draw pictures of each other, outline each other on the wall – anything to make it loads of fun before the serious part begins. It wouldn’t hurt to have a little paint fight if they get board later in the process either.

Landscaping

What kid doesn’t love getting his hands dirty? While we’re not talking the perfect placement of stone for a beautiful walkway, there are many parts of the landscaping process that your kids would love to get involved in. Give her a trowel and tell her where to dig holes for your annual flowers. Have him help you spread mulch around before the fall frost. Take her out once a week with you and have a contest to see who can pull the most weeds.

You can even take your kids to the plant nursery with you so that they can each pick out their own special plant to add to your landscape beauty. It will be theirs to care for and watch grow. What a special way to get them involved.

Build Something

For younger kids, take on a small project such as a window planter or bird house. Older kids and teens do well to help with larger projects, such building a shed. Have them help to spot you on the ladder when you’re up high (even if you don’t need it), and hand you the tools you need – both tasks make them feel important. There are also several ways your kids can use tools to feel like they’ve accomplished something, without the large risk for injury, including:

• Reading the bubble in the level for you
• Removing nails with a hammer
• Measure for you before you cut
• Use a manual screwdriver (great time to teach “lefty-loosy/righty-tighty”)

Creating Memories, too

Getting your kids involved with these activities is not just about knocking them off the to-do list – it’s really about building memories and teaching life skills. With that in mind, remember to be patient. Don’t put too much on your child at once. Involving your children changes the purpose of the project – it’s no longer about efficiency and perfection, but about your kids. After all, we’re learning here!

It takes a lot of patience, so you’re going to have to overcome the urge to snatch the hammer out of your daughter’s hand and do it yourself. Learning takes time, so pick your projects carefully and utilize the opportunity to build your child’s self-esteem – congratulate him on a job well done (even if it doesn’t meet your standards!).

Finally, if you’re going to invite your kids to join you at the hardware store, don’t bother telling them it will be fun – there is nothing more boring than watching you go through paint samples or chose the right sized screw. Instead, use it as a learning opportunity and then go do something fun afterward, like playing at the park.

Construction Terms Defined

Have you ever felt like an outsider – trying very hard to keep up with a conversation when terms you’ve never heard before are thrown out by the dozen? You may feel like that when you’re dealing with a construction project around your home. Generally, Andy and his crew will explain things to you in more laymen terms so that you’re all on the same page. But, you may hear them talking to each other about something during your project and want more understanding of what’s going on.

Certainly you can ask Andy and the HA Construction crew what it all means, but we thought we’d save you a little time and help you feel more in-the-loop by providing definitions for some common construction terms right here. As an added bonus, you’ll feel more attune to what’s going on in your home right from the start.

• Amp (ampere) – the rate of flow of electricity through wires
• Apron – (a) the flat portion of a window’s inside trim, placed between the wall and window sill; (b) the concrete slab at the end of a driveway or at the approach to a garage door
• Astragal – the molding “door stop” for French doors, attached to one of the doors to keep them from hitting each other
• Ballast – limits the flow of electricity into a light bulb (required on all fluorescents)
• Batt Insulation – insulation that is pieced together, resembling a blanket, and often made of fiberglass (see Loose Fill Insulation)
• Bearing Wall – a wall that supports the structure above it in addition to its own weight (i.e. not a wall that can be removed unless another support is put in place, such as a large beam)
• Chase – an opening for pipes and ducts made in the wall or floor
• Clinch – after hammering a nail into two items, bending the point of it to “lock” the pieces
• Cup – when a board warps so that it is no longer level
• Damper ­– a valve for controlling the flow of air
• Dormer Window – a window protruding, like a box, from a sloping roof
• Drip – a protection from a window, door frame or roof that keeps water from running back under decking, windows or doors
• Eminent Domain – the right of governments or public service organizations to claim a certain portion of private property for public use (will often come up during the building process)
• Fascia – the board that covers the end of rafters along roof eaves
• Flashing – material used around roof intersections and projections (such as chimneys or vent pipes) in order to prevent water leaks
• Girder – a beam used to support floor joists
• Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) – a safety circuit breaker, required in bathrooms, that trips the circuit instantaneously if the voltage gets too high
• Hose Bibb – a faucet outside the house for hose attachment
• HVAC – the common term used in reference to heating, ventilation and airc-conditioning
• Inlay – a design set into the surface of a material
• Joist – the supports that bear the weight for ceiling or floor that run parallel to one another, usually made of wood
• Light – a pane of glass
• MDF – “medium density fiberboard” often used for interior trim
• Moisture Barrier – paper or metal treated to help prevent moisture from getting into walls or floors in order to deter damage
• Newel – the bottom most post where the rail ends for a staircase
• OG (Ogee) – a molding that has an ‘S’ curve
• On Center – the measurement from the center of one stud ,rafter, joist, etc. to another
• Plumb – vertical or perpendicular
• Punch-out – referring to the process of adjusting minor deficiencies at the end of a project
• Rake (Rake Board) – the underside of a gabled roof that hangs over the building edge
• Rebar – shorted term for reinforced bar, which are steel robs used to reinforce concrete
• Resin – a sticky substance from tree sap or synthetically created to add color, often to a varnish or paint
• Sash – the frame of a window that holds the glass
• Scaffold – a structure temporarily erected to help contractors work for extended periods at large heights
• Setback – the distance from the front of a building to the front property line (or street)
• Subflooring – plywood nailed to floor joists to form a base for finishing the floor
• Toenail – driving a nail into a surface at an angle
• Tongue & Groove (T&G) – a method of fitting two boards together
• Turnkey – an all-inclusive project, in which the builder handles everything from the initial design plans to the moment he hands you the keys to the finished project
• Wane – a defect in lumber where the bark has not been fully removed from an edge
• Wet Wall – the wall that houses the main plumbing fixtures for a home

Of course, this list just scratches the surface of terms you might hear around the construction site. For a more extensive study of construction terms, check out these other resources:

• U.S. Department of Interior’s PDF document of maintenanceand construction terms
• Construction Jargon -- enter a term in the search box for a definition

Paint a Room Like a Pro: Part 2 – Painting

Don’t panic. We know you’ve waited all week for the second portion of this series so that you can finish the nursery just in time for little Jack to arrive. Make sure that you review the preparation post – that your drop cloths are down, your caulking is done and you’ve masked the edges of all vital surfaces.

Now, let’s get to it, shall we?

Selecting the Right Primer

Now that your walls are clean, it’s time to apply primer. You may think that the only time you need to use a primer is if you’re going from a very dark color to a lighter color. However, professionals use a primer regardless of the color change because it covers stains and allows for the new color to maintain the desired look (rather than being tented by the previous color).

You’ll find many types of primers to choose from. For walls that are relatively clean and problem free (you just want a new color!), use an all-purpose, universal acrylic primer. However, if there are minor stains (such as smoke residue), spot prime those areas with a quick-dry oil based primer (latex base primers, like the Kilz brand, have less odor). Severe stains like crayons, ink, fire damage or water damage, will probably need a shellac-base primer to keep them from bleeding through.

According to Andy, if you tint the primer in the color you want to paint the room, it will cut down on the coats you need of the paint to get adequate coverage.

Cutting In to Edges and Corners

The process for cutting in applies to both primer and painting. Use a wide-mouthed can or painting bucket and add just a couple inches of paint at a time. Then, with your cut-in brush (a wide but thin and flatter brush designated for this process), dip it about a half inch into the paint, tack the sides on the inside of the can and then wipe the excess paint on the lip of the can. It may appear that there isn’t much paint left on your brush to work with, but the interior bristles hold plenty to do the job.

Start a couple of inches away from your cut-in point and bring the paint downward. Starting directly at the tape line or edge will leave behind too much paint (this can cause problems later when you go to remove your masking tape and the paint starts to peel off with it). The same applies to the ceiling – start below the ceiling line to work off the excess paint and work your way up, slowly cutting in along the edge so it’s smooth. You should end up with two to three inches of edging along these points so you have plenty of room to roll without mishap.

It’s important to note that transitioning to a color that contrasts with your current walls, such as going from red to cream, makes it hard to have a straight cut-in line. Again, using a tinted primer and making sure to get an adequate number of coats of paint will help. And remember, you can’t just cut-in once and call it good. You need to cut-in every time you do another coat on the wall for adequate coverage.

Painting Process

Do not saturate your roller – you only want a small amount of paint so that you can avoid drips running down your walls and creating textures you weren’t intending. Roll the brush in the pan until it is covered, and then remove a bit of access by rolling it at the top of the pan.

Start in the middle of the wall, rather than the top or the bottom, and roll in a general “W” pattern to get the access paint off and evenly spread over the surface of the wall. Starting at the top or bottom of the wall makes smoothing the excess paint more difficult. By starting in the middle, you’re working toward your cut-in surface for optimal results.

It’s important that you wait the manufacturer’s designated amount of time before adding additional coats to the paint. And each coat will need to be completely dry before you determine if it needs another coat or not. Before you put on that next coat, check on the walls’ appearance several times throughout the day, because changing daylight will also change the way the walls look. Oddly enough, yellow paint is typically the hardest to cover and, even after a primer, may still need three coats of paint to obtain the new color you desire.

Also, you’ll want to remove your masking before the paint has completely dried, but after it has set, which is usually about a day after your final coat. Waiting too long means that you will have pieces of masking left behind. If you remove it too soon, the paint will peel off, too.

Now the nursery is ready for little Jack’s world début. Next on the list: painting the living room!